Joped.com

I just finally got checked into my hotel and its been an adventure already.  Except for my shuttle not showing up and taking a cab, the trip started out ok.  However, when I got into Vegas I knew something had to go wrong.  Yep, US Assways lost my bag.  Its amazing how an industry that goes to great lengths to create some annoying levels of security and policies, can’t seem to keep track of baggage.  That really frightens me, how is this possible ?  I can understand it happening once in a while, but its just far too common.

Needless to say, I need to sleep in dirty cloths tonight and need to wear them tomorrow as well.  With some lucky maybe my bag will appear tomorrow morning.  They have a limited number of flights here per day, and I was on the last one of the day.  Great.

What pisses me off more then anything is that I have no clean socks.  After wondering around my hotel for a while, I was able to purchase some dress socks.  Guess what, that is good enough for me. (For now)

I asked what the airline expected me to do about brushing my teeth and what not.  They responded with this small bag of stuff to get me through the night.  I am happy they provided it for me, but not happy I needed to beg for it.

So far Circus Circus has been an annoying hotel.  It took far too long for me to find my room.  I love how they have maps all over the place, and none of them indicating “You are here”.

I was told they have internet access in all the rooms, however I can’t find a jack and no wifi signal.  Good thing I brought my EVDO card.  The connection speed is far faster then it was last year, so I am just going to stick using it.

I am off to find something to drink and maybe a light snack.  I have a bit of a headache that I need to shake.

I _tried_ to buy a track from Amazon and it was the worst experience. Not only finding the track that I wanted was a pain in the ass (compared to iTunes). I had to download an application, that doesn’t work with Firefox. (I didn’t fiddle around with it much) So, fired up Safari and went through the whole process again.

Well, the CC they had on file was wrong. Rather then just re-checkout, I had to go through the entire process again.

Needless to say, I went back to iTunes and purchased the tracked I wanted in a fraction of the time.  Screw Amazon and their tax evading ways.

I have been using Leopard for about 4 seeds now (Legally). Time Machine used to work over any AFP (including Airport Base Station), NFS and even SMB. When the end of October hit and Leopard was finally released, for unknown reasons Apple removed most of those features.

Now, in order for Time Machine to work your only options either direct drive connected or AFP to another Leopard client or server.

Although connection to another Leopard box via AFP isn’t bad, its doesn’t work for me. I own 2 Macbook Pros and a Linux server. I had originally planned on using the Linux box as my server for Time Machine. Since I already had AFP running, it would be easy to drop in a new volume for it.

The reasons for Apple doing this is quite unknown and really drives me nuts. Now, I am forced to do one of the following work arounds. None of them are very appealing, and none I have gotten to work yet.

1. Find work around for backing up over SMB or AFP. Although I would love this one to happen, I have yet to see any progress. AFP isn’t being actively developed, so there is an even less chance then SMB. The strange thing is, you can’t even mount a Tiger AFP mount which doesn’t make any sense. I wonder what they changed in the protocol.
2. Find a work around for Airport Extreme Base stations or a fix from Apple. There is a small work around for getting Timemachine to backup to it. However, the Time Machine interface doesn’t work with it and its unstable. I could put together some simple scripts to make sure my mount point is valid at all times I am connected to my LAN.
3. Install Leopard in VMWare. (I am not interested in talking about the EULA. I purchased a Family Pack and I disagree that Apple has the right to limit what machine you can install it on. Its like aftermarket parts) I have been working on trying to figure this one out. I can’t get the image to boot, been trying for a week now. I have posted on a few message boards, this is feeling like a dead end. To top things off, my Linux server is SSE2.
4. Similar to #3, I was thinking that I could purchasing an ultra cheap bare bones system to run it. It doesn’t have to be powerful, just needs to handle Time Machine and serve iTunes to my AppleTV.
5. The AppleTV is another cheap system I might be able to install it to. I don’t think it has SSE3, so it might be a serious problem. I have heard of getting Tiger to run on it.
6. Find very cheap G4 on craigslist, I haven’t been able to find much under $300. I am trying to do it for no more then $250. I haven’t had much luck with eBay either. Not to mention, I don’t know much about older Macs.

There is also the big issue of I can restore from Time Machine after these work arounds are put in place. Once I find a working idea, I am going to test it. My plan is to install Leopard to an external drive and backup to the network mount. From that point, I am going to delete my test partition. Will all my test data be there ?

I will try and post my progress.

I am in the market these days for an HDTV. During my extensive research, the same common issue keeps poping up. Companies like Monster are taking very serious advatage over misinformed customers. Lets face it, HD is a very popular thing right now. Sets are coming down in price more and more every month. You can now buy an HDTV for under $1000. Now, I am not talking about bottom of the barrel sets. For less then $1000 you can get a fairly nice set. For around $2000 you can even get large sets that are over 50″.

With HD, comes along many new terms. To be honest with you, up until a few weeks ago. I had no idea what the difference between 1080p and 720p. DLP vs Plasma vs LCD. After weeks of reading, I now understand many of the ins and outs of HD. I have looked at sets ranging from CRT, to Plasma, to projection. I have also been doing research down to the component level of sets using DLP technology.

With all that being said, what is the difference between a $30 HDMI cable and a $120 HDMI cable. Go around an ask some people on the street. Compare that response to what the stores will tell you, what the packaging will tell you. Then, do some research on the truth.

The truth is, there is no difference. I can’t explain it better then some of the following resources that will really help people wake up to whats going on.

Here is a repost from someone named RUSirius who really explains the truth of the matter, you can read the orginal post here.

1) Wires send electrical signals… Plain and simple. Anything sent over a wire is ultimately just a voltage/current applied to that cable. Let’s say we’re talking about an analog video signal that’s 1 volt peak to peak… In other words, measuring from the LOWEST voltage to the HIGHEST voltage will give a result of 1 volt… With an analog signal you have “slices” of time that are “lines” of signal… It’s too complex to go into here, but basically you have a “front porch” which is known as the “setup”… This is what helps your tv “lock onto” and sets the “black level” for the signal. After that you’ve got each line of the image (455 half cycles per line). Again I won’t go into how chromanance (color information) and luminance (picture or brightness information) is combined, seperated, etc.. It’s too complex for this discussion, but irregardless, just know that following that porch you’ve got all the lines of the picture (and some that don’t show up on the picture… these carry closed captioning, test signals, etc…). All of these “lines” of information when you look at them on a scope look like this…

That waveform is all of that information in analog form… In other words, if you look at one VERY SMALL timeslice of that waveform, the EXACT position of the form (i.e. what voltage is present) represents what information is at that position…

Because of this, it’s VERY EASY for other radiated signals to get “mixed in” with that information. When this happens, the more “noise” you get mixed into the signal, the more degraded the picture will be… You’ll start to get snow, lines, weird colors, etc… Because “information” is getting into the waveform that doesn’t belong there…

With digital however, (i.e. the signal sent over an HDMI cable), the information is encoded differently… At it’s lowest level, it’s nothing but a string of bits… In other words, each signal is either ON or OFF… It doesn’t care if a particular timeslice is 4.323 volts or 4.927 volts… It’s just ON… See on the right side here, the “square wave” pattern?

That’s what a digital signal looks like… For each “slice” of the signal, the “bit” is either on (if the signal is high) or off (if it’s low)…

Because of that, even if you mix some noise, or even a LOT of noise into the signal, the bit will STILL be on or off… It doesn’t matter…

Now, for a slightly easier to understand analogy…

B) Think of it this way… Let’s say you have a ladder with 200 steps on it… An “analog” signal represent information by WHICH step the person is on at a certain time. As you move further and further away (get “noise or interference in the signal), it’s very easy to start making mistakes… For example, if the person is on the 101st step, you might say he’s on 102nd, or as you get further away, you might start making more and more mistakes… At some point you won’t know if the person is on the 13th step or the 50th step….

NOW… In a digital signal, we don’t care if he’s on the 13th or 14th or 15th step… All we care about is rather he’s at the TOP or the BOTTOM… So now, as we back you up further and further (introduce more noise), you might have no idea what STEP he’s on, but you’ll STILL be able to tell if he’s a “1″ or a “0″…

THIS is why digital signals aren’t affected by cheaper cables, etc… Now eventually if you keep moving further and further back, there may come a point where you can no longer tell if he’s up or down… But the good news is, digital signals don’t “guess”… If they SEE the signal, they work… If they DON’T, they DON’T.. LOL

So if anyone ever tells you they can “see the difference” between HDMI cables, etc… You can knowingly laugh to yourself and think about how much money the poor sole wasted on something that was pointless.

Now, I’ve seen others say that they make a difference in audio… ALL audio carried over HDMI is STILL in digital format… So again, since it’s a digital signal, it will not make ANY difference at all….

I’ve also seen various posts in regards to things like “Make sure you get a v1.3 cable”… The various HDMI versions determine the capabilities of the DEVICES on either end of that cable (most of the HDMI versions (other then 1.0 to 1.1) have to do with AUDIO and how many channels / type of audio are carried…) Because of this, the cable itself is NO DIFFERENT… It’s just marketing that some companies charge more for a “v1.3″ cable then a “v1.1″ cable, etc… The cables themselves will work now and WELL into the future for any other HDMI versions that come along the way….

Sure, the above can be confusing to most people. Do some googling on the issue and you will be suprised how much people are getting ripped off.

Before you buy something, make sure you do some research. Going to the store and trusting the sales persons pitch doesn’t count.